1. The screw for the turn signal lever is in the wrong hole; check to see if the screw went into the hole closest to the shaft. There are two holes where the turn signal lever would rest; the hole closest to the center of the assembly is the one where the screw should go.
2. Make sure that all of the contacts on the plug are free from any paint.
You may think that the above solutions sound too trivial to fix your problem, but please try them! More often than not, it is something really easy to overlook that will give you the biggest problem!
If those tests didn't fix your problem, you will need to dig a little deeper into what may be causing your problem. Below we have provided the wiring schematic as well as some other information that may guide you to the answer. If none of this works, or you need some guidance, please feel free to contact us !
Wiring Schematic - (Click here to see picture of diagram)
White - Brake Feed
Green - Right rear turn signal and break
Yellow - Left rear turn signal and brake
Purple - Turn Feed
Brown - 4 Way Feed
Dark Blue - Right front turn signal and indicator
Light Blue - Left front turn signal and indicator
Black - Ground for horn relay For any of these tests make sure the key is on the ON/IN position and that the 4 Way Flashers are OFF/OUT. The only tools that you should need are a Test Light and a Continuity Tester.
1. Brake System Check
The white wire should be connected to the light tester when testing the brakes. Touch the white wire with your test light and push down the brake pedal. Then attach the green and yellow wires together and press the brake pedal down once more. If the test light doesn't light up, you may have a brake switch that needs to be replaced.
2. Turn Signal Test
The purple wire should be connected to the test light when testing the turn signal. In most cases this may not flash and that is ok for testing purposes. By putting on the right signal you should get the same response. Then connect the green and dark blue wires to the test light. Test both sides left and right to see if that could be your problem. When doing any of these tests we are checking for a current through the test light. If any of these tests fail, you need to find where the current is broken through a fuse, switch, or a loose wire.
3. 4 Way Test
When connecting your brown wire to the test light you should have found out that you have power to your 4 way feed. When testing the entire flasher together, connect the dark blue, light blue, yellow and the green wire to the test light. If all are working except one, then once again, you need to find out whether it is a problem with the wire being broken or misconnected.
4. Horn Testing
On the very top of your column there is a white tube sticking out of your horn cam in which the horn connector would slide into, which makes the connection from the column to the horn relay. Check from this brass contact to the end of the wire with your continuity tester. Using a test light will not work on this trouble-shooting test. You will need to use the continuity tester. What the continuity tester is going to do, is to check for a missing link between the contact and the top of the wire plug adapter. If this test is ok, then check from the brass contact to the center shaft of the column. Make sure it isn't grounding out by touching the brass contact to the center shaft of the column. If the continuity tester goes off, then you have a grounding issue and you need to find where it may be grounding out.
